|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
Ask The Petz Vet
|
|
|
|
|
|
Special Needs Dogs Hit the Road!
Injuries and old age don’t equal
diminished spirit.
By Carol Bryant, FIDO Friendly magazine
|
Traveling with a blind dog is not much different than traveling with a sighted dog”; “He adapted to his wheelchair immediately and uses a harness in the car”; “Road trips with a senior dog just require a little extra planning.” These are the comments echoed by the canine guardians of Little Bit, Benjamin and Brandy Noel, respectively.
Their bodies may be injured but their spirits are never broken. Fido’s road can get bumpy occasionally as fate deals its cards, but as potholes are meant to be filled and broken bridges repaired, Fido too just needs some extra TLC to keep his motor running. With a host of products available to assist in his comfort and transport (such as those collapsible wheelchairs from www.handicappedpets.com), guardians have many resources to turn to when it’s time to hit the road. |
|
| |
|
When South Carolina resident Arlene O’Neil’s Labrador-mix pooch, Little Bit, became blind, she knew it meant adjusting but never giving up. “To accommodate Little Bit’s size and lack of sight, my vehicles always had a full bench seat. Bucket seats were too confusing, as Little Bit could not see where he was in relation to the dashboard or gearshift. He never acquired what is referred to as ‘car legs,’ so the back floor of the car was always built up with blankets and pillows until it was flush with the back seat. This prevented him from falling off the seat onto the floor,” she proudly beamed. “On the few occasions that Little Bit and I stayed in a hotel, a first-floor room was always requested. Upon arrival, I walked the room with Little Bit on leash, announcing and slapping the succession of furniture: door, couch, bed, bureau, etc. Within moments, Little Bit had the room mapped out in his mind and seldom made an error as he moved about the area. Traveling with a handicapped dog is only as complicated as you allow it to become.”
Raegan Hawk of LaVale, Maryland, knows first-hand how life can change in an instant. “Ben and I were out playing in the backyard with a ball. He screamed, fell to the ground, and could not move. He was eventually diagnosed with a ruptured disk.
Forty- eight hours later, he had permanent hind leg paralysis. Vets suggested I put him down.” Hawk soared like her namesake, swooping in and refusing to accept the grim news. Ben uses a dog wheelchair to get around, and he has easily adapted. “I express Ben’s bladder four times a day. He’s so smart and cooperative, lying on his side for me as we use a puppy pad and diaper. We have a routine established. It was an adjustment, but totally doable.
Ben is amazing and has such a passion for life. As a Canine Good Citizen, he visits nursing homes and goodwill industries. I owe him the same loyalty. Ben loves his wheelchair and gets around just great,” Hawk related.
Leave no dog behind® and that means seniors, too. This writer traveled with a loving Cocker her entire 15 years, even when old age made things a bit more complicated. Thanks to a pet stroller, Brandy Noel was able to travel from sea to shining sea. More frequent pit stops for potty breaks and plenty of water for a thirsty road warrior were both mandatory and doable.
Fate holds the wristwatch, but we as guardians control the direction of the hands. Our dogs add so very much to our lives, from companionship to laughter, loyalty to unconditional love. A few adjustments in the road of life means sometimes taking the path less traveled. Finding an alternate route is sometimes a necessary diversion on life’s highway, and being able to stay on that highway with Fido makes the diversion worth it. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
back
to top |
|
|
|
Sleeping with the Enemy
Fido is on the prowl.
By Carol Bryant, FIDO Friendly magazine
| Sniff sniff sniff. Those are the three sounds a particular predator fears most. Pasha packs a double-barrel nasal weapon in pursuit of pests that reek silent but nasty havoc on unsuspecting vacationers. The predator is the bedbug, and Pasha is one of many bedbug-finding dogs leading the pack in identification and elimination of these wingless insects of the night. Though the topic can give some the “heebie jeebies,” knowing what to look for and how to identify an infestation can save travelers a lot of time, money, grief and even bites.
“There are misconceptions out there about bedbugs. Clutter management is pivotal. Clutter invites bedbugs,” said Susan C. Jones, Ph.D., Associate Professor of Entomology at Ohio State University. “When traveling, I don’t ask if there is a bedbug problem, I check.” And check she does. Professor Jones shared with FIDO Friendly a specific list of how to do a bedbug inspection.
“If signs of bedbugs are evident, do not stay in that room. Report it to the hotel staff. Do not have contact with the infested unit. When changing rooms, do not take a room above, below or to either side of the infected one. Bedbugs migrate in certain patterns,” said Professor Jones. |
|
|
| |
 |
In the event of a bedbug infestation, canines come to the rescue. Dick Horton, sales and operations manager for Bed Bug Finders, LLC works directly with bedbug finding canines—three to be exact. “These dogs are trained exclusively to find bedbugs. We work with them daily to keep this skill intact. They are trained in a similar way to bomb-sniffing dogs,” he said. When the dogs find a problem, they become rigid and sit down. Accuracy rates are reported as 96 percent, whereas some pest control services report 30 percent. Clearly the dog’s nose knows. “We have two Beagles and a Jack Russell. We practice daily with vials of bedbugs. All three dogs are trained exclusively to find them,” Horton continued. “It is an old wives’ tale that bedbugs are found in dirty hotels. We get calls from five-star hotels as well as office buildings.”
For example, in New York City, an international travel town, reports keep Horton and his company busy. “Our dogs work for food. They will find bedbugs within three to four feet of their scent. We tell travelers to do a visual inspection upon arrival and to report any findings immediately to hotel staff.”
More specifically, there has been an increase in the outbreak of bedbugs throughout North America, parts of Western Europe and Australia. More than 9,200 complaints of bedbugs were filed with the New York City Department of Public Health in 2008. Bedbugs may pose a risk that people aren’t even aware of. Small red track marks with a local swelling on the skin after waking is a general indication of a bedbug bites. |
|
| |
| Diligence, prevention and reporting are all keys to fighting this problem. Bedbugs beware: there’s a new sheriff in town and they hunt on all fours. Fido to the rescue. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
back
to top |
|
|
Natural Pet Bandages Spring to the
Rescue for Itchy Pets!
by Jason Hutcheson, DVM
| |
| No-Fuss Product Helps Skin Allergies, Hot Spots and Insect Bites Just like people, dogs and cats tend to get itchy in the spring due to unwelcome airborne allergens such as pollen, grass clippings and molds. Pets are also likely to be spending more time outdoors, which makes them prone to skin irritations caused by insects and encounters with prickly plants. But unlike people, pets often keep licking, biting or chewing those itchy areas, making the problem even worse.
In response to this irritating springtime occurrence, one new product pet owners should have on hand is a package of Anti-Lick Strip Prevent® bandages from Nurtured Pets®. These unique pet adhesive bandages are made with an exclusive blend of natural |
|
| ingredients – including cayenne pepper, lemon powder, clove oil and oregano – that safely and effectively discourages pets from bothering skin irritations so they have a chance to heal. “As the weather starts gets warmer, pet parents need to be prepared,” said Cindy Miller, Director of Marketing for Nurtured Pets, a company focused on pet health and wellness. “It’s commonly known that abrasions, sores and skin irritations occur more frequently during spring time for our pets. Some of these problems can be caused by outdoor play, insect bites, allergies which lead to increased licking, biting and chewing. The good news is that pet parents can stop unwanted behavior at the first sign with Anti-Lick Strip Prevent. ”
In addition to deterring pets from licking, biting and chewing minor wounds, cuts and abrasions, Anti-Lick Strip Prevent bandages are also ideal for helping alleviate skin irritations stemming from separation anxiety, boredom or other behavioral issues. The strips are also helpful for surgical sites or after spaying and neutering to keep pets from licking their stitches.
They can either be used as a therapeutic bandage or applied at the earliest sign of a problem, before skin irritations can occur.
Anti-Lick Strip pet bandages are constructed with a peel and stick, medical-grade adhesive that lasts up to five days. They come individually wrapped in a Six or Two-Pack, and are available in small, medium and large sizes. Look for them at PetSmart and other fine pet specialty stores. All Anti-Lick Strip products are veterinarian-approved and manufactured in the United States. For more information, visit www.nurturedpets.com or please call 877-PETS-771.
Nurtured Pets™ is dedicated to providing products that create a healthy lifestyle for pets.
The company has introduced the first product of its kind to deter licking, biting and chewing. Clinically proven and formulated with all-natural active ingredients, products include Anti-Lick Strip Prevent™, sold in retail stores, and Anti-Lick Strip Pro™ and Anti-Lick Strip Pro C™ both sold exclusively to veterinarians. The Anti-Lick Strip Prevent was chosen from among hundreds of pet products, as a 2009 Editors' Choice Award Winner from Pet Product News International. Nurtured Pets, a Lauren International, Inc., company, is an Ohio-based manufacturer. For more information, visit their website at www.nurturedpets.com |
|
|
|
|
back
to top |
|
|
Abscesses in Rabbits
by Jason Hutcheson, DVM
| |
| Abscesses occurring in rabbits can have many different causes. Some of these causes can be prevented while others are not known until the abscess has occurred. Once formed, the treatment for these abscesses can be both time consuming and costly for the owner as well as uncomfortable for the bunny. The most common bacteria found in rabbit abscesses are Pasteurella spp. but a bacterial culture may be necessary to confirm or guide treatment. The purpose of this article is to inform the bunny owner of the different types of rabbit abscesses, the prevention of some (where applicable), and the length of treatment that may be involved in clearing up an abscess once it has formed. This listing is not all inclusive but does discuss the types most often seen in this practice. |
 |
Superficial abscesses can occur on any part of the body and are found just under or in between the layers of the skin. The rabbits typically do not show signs of a problem such as pain, lethargy, or anorexia. The owner will commonly notice a swelling in or scab on the skin and bring the bunny into the clinic, where the final diagnosis is made. The underlying cause is generally from a penetrating wound such as a bite from a cage mate, sharp objects (such as wire, hay stems, or sewing needles), or projectiles (such as BB’s or pellets from a kid’s air rifle!). Treatment usually involves lancing and flushing the abscess, placing the bunny on systemic antibiotics, as well as scheduling follow-up appointments to make sure the lanced area stays open long enough for the infection to clear. The healing process from a superficial abscess may take as little as ten days or as long as three months. One case in particular comes to mind: “Frans” was presented for assessment of a recent bite wound on his side. Initially the wound did not look too bad but I mentioned to the owners the potential of it becoming a severe abscess. As predicted, the wound became very serious despite preemptive treatment. Three surgeries, many flushings and bandage changes, two long-term antibiotic treatments, and three months later…the abscess healed with no other ill effects.Joint abscesses are very painful and can occur in any joint of the body but are most typically found in the hock joint of the hind leg or the wrist joint of the fore leg. The owner may notice the bunny being reluctant to move or a tendency to “shuffle” instead of hop. In addition, the bunny may go off feed and become very lethargic. Upon presentation the rabbit will have severely swollen limb joints and often have scabs and pus on their hocks and wrists. The most common underlying cause of a joint abscess is frequently a result of being housed on a wire surface, although some joint abscesses are a result of bacteria getting into the blood stream and then settling out in one or more of the aforementioned joints. The cause of the bacterial infection of the blood is a result of a compromised immune system that stress, poor nutrition, and bad husbandry practices often induce. Treatment for this type of abscess is very lengthy and may include, but is not limited to systemic antibiotics, topical antiseptic treatment of the affected joints, pain control, and, most importantly, correction of the poor husbandry techniques. A bunny recovering from a leg joint abscess will usually have severe joint damage which results in irreversible arthritis and may need to be placed on lifelong anti-arthritis medications. The case of “Mr. Ben” comes to mind: He was presented to the hospital in very bad shape; calling his husbandry sub-standard was a compliment! He suffered from severe malnutrition in addition to joint abscesses of BOTH hocks and BOTH wrists. He was adopted by HRS and for three months was treated with systemic antibiotics, chlorhexadine soaks of all four feet, repeated lancing of all four affected joints, and pain medication. After this period of treatment and correcting his diet (he almost doubled his weight) and providing proper living conditions; “Mr. Ben’s” joints were so deteriorated that he still cannot walk normally and is given anti-arthritis medication regularly.
Abscesses that occur around the base of the ear are called periaural abscesses. These are typically not painful and often an owner will note a grape-sized swelling in the area where the ear meets the head. Some bunnies alert their owners to investigate the affected ear by scratching at it furiously or repeated head shaking. Sometimes a periaural abscess is caused by the same things that would cause a superficial abscess. Other times, they may be the result of an ear infection. Regardless of the cause, they usually rupture on the inside of the ear resulting in drainage of some of the pus down the ear canal. This tendency to rupture and partially drain may account for the abscess’ small size upon presentation. In any case, they should be treated with both systemic antibiotics and topical ear medications after the initial lancing and flushing. Rechecks are just as important with this type as they are with the superficial abscesses to prevent premature closure of the lanced area and subsequent reformation of the abscess. In my experience this type of abscess tends to reoccur; often months after the initial treatment and apparent healing. An example is “Skittles”: I have treated her for this type of abscess approximately once every ten to twelve months for the past three years. Never has she appeared to be bothered by this reoccurring problem (except when I lance and flush it!). Every year the area appears to heal up and has no further swelling for months. Her owners have become very astute to this problem and bring her back in at the first sign of reoccurrence.
The next group of abscesses occurs less frequently, but due to their underlying causes are worth mentioning. Internal abscess may form in either the abdomen or the chest. They can be associated with any organ found therein. In most cases, they are the result of bacteria in the bloodstream due to a decreased immune system. As previously mentioned, a rabbit’s immune system can be compromised from increased stress, i.e. poor nutrition, improper housing, and inappropriate living conditions. The bacteria responsible for the abscesses is not taken care of by the bunnies own defenses and can settle out in various organs of the body. In addition to joints (previously mentioned), organs such as the liver, kidneys, lungs, or intestinal lymph nodes may be involved. The uterus can also be the site of internal abscess formation. Obviously, spaying a female bunny at an early age can prevent this type. Signs of an internal abscess are much vaguer than any signs mentioned previously. More often, these rabbits are presented for anorexia, lethargy, or “ADRD” syndrome (Ain’t Doin’ Right, Doc!) Diagnosis is made with X-ray films or ultrasound and treatment is surgical with outcomes being very guarded.
(This was the original page break to divide the article into two parts. I had some transition paragraph here at the time)
The most common site for jaw abscesses in rabbits occurs in the lower jaw. The most common breeds tend to be dwarf males. Often, the rabbit is brought into the hospital for such vague signs as not eating, not defecating, lethargy, or drooling. Sometimes owners notice a large, sometimes golf ball-sized hard lump on the affected jaw. The physical exam typically reveals the large lump which may be hard, soft, or a combination of the two as well as a malocclusion of the back or “cheek” teeth. X-ray films then confirm the presence of a jaw abscess with proliferation of the jaw bone.
The cause of these abscesses and accompanying malocclusions are usually multifactor and may never be definitively determined. As mentioned, rabbits with jaw abscesses usually have malocclusions and the two problems are definitely linked. So which problem came first: the abscess or the malocclusion? The answer is either could have come first with the other being the result.
Infection of the tooth roots or gums could spread to the bone surrounding the teeth. The infection could have been introduced by foreign objects such as hayseeds wedging between the teeth and gums or splinters from wood chewing. I have even seen one bunny that got into the sewing basket and got a sewing needle lodged in his gums. Regardless of entryway, the bacteria can proliferate and invade the surrounding bone causing the bone to weaken. The teeth then become loose in their sockets and shift their position. A malocclusion is the result. Additionally, physiologic stressors such as poor diet, bad husbandry, and inappropriate living conditions can weaken a bunny’s immune system facilitating the above process.
The above paragraph describes how infection precedes malocclusion with the end result being an abscess of the jaw. The same resulting abscess can also be obtained when the chain of events are reversed. More commonly, a malocclusion is the initiating cause and the infected abscess comes along secondarily. Tooth root elongation is one type of acquired malocclusion linked to jaw abscess formation. The theory is that rabbits without proper wear-down of their cheek teeth end up with their jaws held slightly open due to the tooth crowns being too long above the gum line. Over time the jaws cannot be held open any wider and the pressure exerted on the teeth caused by their continuous growth essentially pushed the tooth roots in the opposite direction. The tooth roots basically are pushed out of their sockets and into the deeper layers of the jaw bone. The bunny’s body perceives this as a foreign invasion (tooth roots are not supposed to be out of their sockets and in the deeper layers of jaw bone) and a major inflammatory response occurs with a hard bony abscess resulting. Metabolic bone disease is another theory as to how some abscesses form. Basically bone needs calcium, phosphorus, and vitamin D to remain solid and strong. A deficiency of or problem utilizing any of the three ingredients can lead to thin and week bones all over the body. In addition to bone fractures, malocclusion is a common manifestation of metabolic bone disease. This occurs because the body starts to reabsorb the minerals from its own stores in the bones. The tooth sockets become too big to hold the teeth adequately. The teeth are loose and are easily shifted into a misalignment. The resulting gaps and loose fitting teeth allow foodstuffs and bacteria from the mouth to become wedged into the space between tooth root and boney socket creating a perfect environment for the bacteria to grow and invade the surrounding bone. The result, once again, is a bony jaw abscess.
Once diagnosed, treatment for jaw abscesses should be aggressive! Each bunny and situation is different and this list of treatments may not apply to every bunny. At for Pet’s Sake we typically place these bunnies on antibiotics and anti-inflammatory medication immediately and schedule there first surgery to lance, flush, and remove parts of the infected jaw bone. I say first surgery because rarely will one single surgery and one simple round of antibiotics cure this problem. During this first surgery we also trim and file the overgrown misaligned back teeth. The lanced abscesses are usually left open and flushed with an antimicrobial solution daily. Subsequent surgeries are usually required to remove more of the infected bone, flush out more pockets of pus, instill antibiotic impregnated beads or gel, or remove infected teeth. Treatments can go on for months and despite any combination of above treatments, may never “cure” the problem. I consider treatment successful if the jaw does not form any more abscesses for two years. These “cured” bunnies will require periodic back teeth trims and files for the rest of their lives as the malocclusion never corrects itself after treatment of the abscess. |
|
|
|
|
back
to top |
|
|
The
Senior Pet: How Aging Affects the Body
Systems
by Mary M. Alward
|
|
 |
There are over one million pets in the
United States alone. Imagine how many
there are world wide and more amazing is
that 45% of the world’s dogs and 40% of
cats world wide are seniors.
As your pet gets older, he experiences a
gradual slowing in the body’s systems as
well as psychological changes. It is
important to know what changes are
occurring so you can cope with future
problems adequately. Being knowledgeable
of the aging process allows you to at
time to delay, or even prevent these
issues. |
Immune System
The immune system is greatly effected as
your pet grows older, which causes a
slowing and allows your pet to be at
risk for disease. Be sure to change your
pet’s food to allow optimum performance
of the immune system as soon as your pet
reaches the age when he is classified as
a senior. Cats reach senior status at 10
years old, while dogs mature more
quickly and are geriatric pets between
the ages of 8 and 10 years.
Cardiovascular System
Chronic heart valve problems are quite
common in dogs and are occasionally
found in cats. This is usually caused by
poor dental hygiene and can often be
avoided by brushing your pet’s teeth on
a daily basis to prevent plaque buildup
and periodontal disease.
Like humans, a pet’s heart efficiency
decreases with age and cardiac output is
reduced to approximately 33%. If these
statistics are coupled with heart
enlargement, fibrosis, fat infiltration
and dying portions of the heart muscle,
which is akin to a human heart attack,
it can lead to heart failure and sudden
death. Brushing your pet’s teeth on a
daily basis and assuring that he has
regular dental checkups will help to
keep his heart healthy.
Oral Disease
There will naturally be some plaque
buildup and loss of teeth no matter how
well you care for your pet’s teeth.
Decreased saliva production and
resistance to disease in geriatric pets
will make this problem worse. This means
that it is likely that at some stage in
your pet’s golden years he will suffer
from some type of periodontal disease.
As a result, toxins will be produced in
the mouth and absorbed by the body.
Infected gums allow bacteria to enter
the bloodstream at an alarming rate when
you pet chews. This can cause a host of
serious medical problems if not taken
care of at once.
Some problems caused by periodontal
disease include lung disease, heart
failure, liver and kidney disease and
meningitis. It also makes it very
painful for your pet to chew his food.
This can cause weight loss and the
eventual shutting down of the body’s
organs. It is imperative that you have
your pet’s teeth and gums check by your
veterinarian on a regular basis
throughout his life and into old age.
Skin Problems
Geriatric pets often show signs of aging
in the skin and fur. Skin thickens as
your pet grows older, which causes it to
loose elasticity. The fur becomes
thinner and may or may not turn gray.
The risk of skin cancer and tumors
increases drastically, especially tumors
caused by fat and sebaceous gland
adenomas (wart like growths) will
appear. Your pet’s paw pads will become
dry and thicken, which can cause painful
cracking. Nails can become brittle and
break easily or even become malformed.
It is important that your pet been seen
by a veterinarian for regular checkups
once he is a senior. These symptoms can
often be avoided with early detection.
Respiratory Ailments
Some respiratory changes that occur
normally when you pet becomes a senior
include chronic bronchitis, fibrosis and
obstructive lung disease. These problems
will eventually lead to heart failure if
not taken care of. Poor respiratory
function leads to oxygen reduction in
the blood, which brings on signs of
senility and makes your pet’s body
muscles weak. Muscle tremors are common
in older pets and arthritis and other
degenerative joint diseases are common.
Ask your veterinarian how to keep your
pet’s respiratory system in optimum
health.
Metabolism Function
As your pet ages, his thyroid gland
function decreases substantially. He
will become less active, leading to the
need for reduced food intake and a
special food for geriatric pets. If the
diet is not changed, weight gain will
occur. This can put added strain on your
pet’s heart and other organs. He may
develop the inability to determine
thirst. This will result in dehydration
problems, which if not taken care of
will lead to subsequent death. Pets also
develop insensitivity to heat and cold
and precautions must be taken to avoid
heat stroke and hypothermia.
Nervous System
Geriatric pets often suffer from
senility, sleep disorders, depression
and muscle disorders because of a lack
of serotonin in the brain. Hearing,
sight and smell may also be affected
when the covering of the brain become
thick. Pets will become irritable, slow
to obey commands and have problems with
behaviors and disorientation. Older pets
tend to sleep for increased hours each
day, but for shorter periods of time,
the period being one of restlessness.
Decreased mental alertness and physical
agility are normal in senior pets.
Digestive System
Senior pets have a decreased efficiency
of the digestive tract. Enzyme
production is reduced by the pancreas
and this can lead to the absorption of
intestinal toxins, as well as improper
absorption of nutrients from food.
Symptoms include excessive flatulence,
diarrhea and vomiting. Be sure your
geriatric pet is on a senior diet to
alleviate these problems. If symptoms do
occur, make an appointment to have you
pet examined by your veterinarian.
Liver Function
As your pet grows older, the liver is
overloaded with fat, which causes a
decrease in function. This can affect
your pet’s ability to detoxify dangerous
materials and digest medications
properly. Be sure to notify your
veterinarian if your pet vomits bile, or
has excessive problems digesting his
food.
Loss of Senses
Older pets often experience loss of
hearing and sight. Sight loss can be
caused by glaucoma, aging of the lens of
the eye, cataracts, pigmentation of the
cornea and thinning of the retina.
Hearing loss is normal as your pet ages.
This is due to degenerative changes in
the ears. Extreme changes in the
production and consistency of ear wax
lead to itchy ears and other problems.
Dogs sometimes bark more when hearing
loss occurs.
The sense of smell and taste decrease as
your pet gets up in years. This leads to
reduced appetite, intake of food and
weight loss. If you notice that you pet
is experiencing excessive weight loss,
make an appointment for him to be
checked by your veterinarian.
If you want to extend the years you
spend with your pet, be sure to change
his diet as soon as he reaches geriatric
age and have him checked on a regular
basis by your veterinarian. This will
assure longevity and many years of
companionship with your beloved pet. |
|
|
|
back
to top |
|
|
Pet Vaccination Fact Sheet
| |
| Despite widespread proof that vaccines have prevented death or illness for millions of animals, concern is growing among some pet owners about possible vaccination dangers. |
|
|
|
|
Members of the Georgia Veterinary Medical Association stress that vaccinations’ benefits far outweigh their dangers. However, veterinarians’
understanding of vaccinations is evolving. For instance, booster shots for core vaccines (rabies, parvo, distemper and adenovirus) once were almost universally administered annually. Now, many vets have switched to three-year schedules.
There is still controversy within the profession over the frequency of booster shots, with veterinarians at the far end of the spectrum arguing that animals can go even longer than three years between shots.
The GVMA offers this advice: Find a veterinarian you trust and rely on his or her judgment.
Veterinarians consider factors such as an animal’s lifestyle (does it spend all or most of its time indoors?; is it in frequent contact with other animals?) and age when dispensing vaccination advice.
Dogs that drink from stagnant water or spend time in kennels may need shots to protect them from maladies that commonly arise from those settings. And
all outdoor dogs require year-round protection from heartworms in Georgia, where the mosquitoes that carry the parasite are a constant threat.
Regardless of how often shots are administered,
annual checkups are a must, GVMA members say. A veterinarian’s trained eye may discover such problems as tumors, kidney disease or teeth issues.
Adverse reactions to vaccines are rare, and most of them are minor (itching, temporary soreness or lethargy). Severe reactions – such as cancerous sarcoma tumors in cats and immune suppression in dogs – are extremely rare. |
|
back
to top |
|
|
Feline
Parasites
- by Dr. Jill S.
Pruett, DVM: The Cat Clinic of North
Georgia (info@docmeow.com)
| |
 |
Summer is here!
For most of us in the United
States, that means sunny family
vacations, trips to the beach,
barbecues, planting gardens, or
just relaxing in the
air-conditioned comfort of home.
It is notoriously considered an
easy-going, relaxing time,
carefree and potentially full of
adventure. However, our pets may
see it from a very different
perspective. To them, summer may
hold memories of extreme
discomfort, ridden with
microscopic parasites, causing
everything from insatiable
itchiness to fatal disease.
While we remember last summer to
be a fun, exciting time, our pet
may instead recall the long stay
at the vet’s, on IV fluids and
daily medication to save her
life from the malnourishment and
anemia caused by any thousands
of preventable diseases she
contracted from parasites. |
|
|
|
|
Let me first preface all this with a
certain “disclaimer:” I live in the
southern United States, where it never
gets cold enough that these parasites go
dormant. Prevention should be
administered year-round. However, I have
seen first-hand that the warmer months
anywhere in the U.S. seem to increase
the parasite population exponentially.
So while I must advocate prevention
year-round, I feel compelled to strongly
urge that we are particularly on top of
things throughout the summer. Our pets
see the world from a “shorter”
perspective. Imagine the movie “A Bug’s
Life,” where their view is just inches
off the horizon; grass blades to them
are towering trees to us. Well, the view
from the majority of our domesticated
pets fall somewhere in the middle. Try
getting down on your hands and knees and
see if you don’t notice things that
could interest Fluffy, who is a born
carnivorous hunter, more than if she
stood 5 or 6 feet off the ground, with
forward facing eyes. You will inevitably
tend to see more bugs, more filth (i.e.
under the fridge-oops!), and the
litterbox is especially pungent (another
important topic entirely! Stay tuned for
that upcoming article…). As we of the
human variety are several feet off the
ground, lazing around on our hammocks in
the summer sun, waiting for our sun-tea
to brew, our pets may be laying just
underneath us, their noses buried in
their fur, gnawing incessantly to catch
that biting flea. Or they are digging
around in your perfectly trimmed hedges,
coming “face-to-face” with the roundworm
eggs left behind from the stray dog’s
attempt to relieve his bowels in your
yard. The summer may seem care-free
enough to us, but the dangers lurking
for our pets are often unseen or
unnoticed until it is too late. We don’t
see fleas when there is just one, even
though Fluffy does; we see them when our
pet is miserably allergic to the
thousands of bites she has gotten. We do
not see the parasite eggs in the yard
until it is too late and they have been
ingested and matured in our pet’s
intestines, causing horribly
uncomfortable and deadly dehydrating
diarrhea and malnutrition.
If our pets could speak “human,”
veterinary medicine would be an entirely
different ball game for sure. Although
it is most certainly a very serious
occupation, I still can’t help but think
of it a “game” of sorts sometimes. I
work exclusively with patients of the
feline persuasion, and let me tell you
they do not exactly drive themselves
happily to my office and lift their tail
willingly for a temperature check. A
professor of mine in vet school used to
refer to them as "little black boxes."
Knowing cats all my life, I think I "got
it" right away, but to those of you new
to feline companionship, let me explain
it this way, in the simplest of
analogies: imagine my client brings to
me a small, perfectly intact 6-sided
cubed structure, and delivers it on the
exam table in front of me. Inevitably
the first question out of my client’s
mouth is “So what’s wrong with her doc?
Can you save her?” I then slowly,
blankly, but politely look down at this
box in front of me. The first thing I
notice is that it’s tightly shut and
painted black, thus letting no light in
or secrets out. This box does not start
telling me how it has been feeling
lately; it just kind of sits there,
silently. Sometimes this box looks
perfectly fine to me, but owners know
their boxes, and know when they are just
not feeling right. Therefore the owner’s
history and input is sometimes more
invaluable to me than anything I can
find in or on this box. My job is to
figure out how to open this box, how to
find just exactly where it differs from
the other healthy boxes I have seen that
day. But nevertheless, the box never
speaks, never points to the pain, never
describes its emotional state or if it
caught and ate a spider last night.
Hmmm…very similar to the warm, furry,
four-legged patients of mine. I must
sometimes disassemble this box to find
out what is wrong before I can assemble
him again. That is the game, the puzzle.
Anyway, because cats are so good at
hiding everything, unfortunately
sometimes we don’t realize until it is
too late that help is needed. As
responsible pet owners we have an
obligation to prevent the preventable,
especially when the outcome of disease
is fatal. One of the creeds I live by as
a pet owner, and one of my favorite
quotes is this: “We are responsible
forever for what we have tamed.” Your
cat cannot (and would not anyway,
because they don’t know what you know,
and probably think it’s none of your
business anyway!) tell you that she was
just bitten by a mosquito. All she knows
is that she felt a little prick, and was
itchy for a few days later. But what I
know, and what I need you to know, is
that little bite could be more deadly
than the bites we do notice, like from
the neighbor’s cat. We will take Fluffy
in to see the doc when she obviously has
a nasty abscess, but not likely when she
has a small mosquito bite. Unfortunately
the difference is, the mosquito bite can
be 100 times more deadly if that
mosquito was a carrier of heartworm
larva. And similarly, we tend not to
notice (and of course they do not tell
us) that our kitties have been nosing
around the poo that the neighbor’s cat
or dog left near the hedges, when we are
taking a long afternoon nap in the warm
comfort of the hammock. But very soon
after, kitty will find herself on my
exam table, unable to describe to me the
gutwrenching intestinal cramps, general
weakness from malnutrition, and urgency
to move her bowels lately. The only
reason she finds herself on my exam
table is because mom or dad human saw a
worm in her vomit, or diarrhea in her
litterbox. But what she is feeling
inside, she has been hiding from us. In
her mind, if she shows any sign of
weakness, any number of predators will
sense her weakness and seek her out. Why
do you think that of all the mammals
living on the Earth today, the feline
body has evolved the least? They are
good at being feline; hiding illness is
just what they do. So it is up to us to
know what can happen before it happens.
That is, we have the knowledge to
prevent so many devastating diseases,
and of course, “an ounce of prevention
is worth a pound of cure.” The choice is
ours: we can take 5 minutes out of our
lives each month to administer the
prevention of hundreds of parasites and
diseases. Or we can wait until our kitty
is very ill, because she is not going to
let you know when she is “kind of” ill.
We can spend a hundred dollars on
preventing and killing parasites before
they cause any problems, or we can spend
thousands on treatment when it has
gotten out of hand, and watch our kitty
sit in the cold steel cage all summer
sometimes just trying to live through
the day.
And just because your kitty never
sets foot outside the front door doesn’t
mean that we don’t bring in parasite
eggs on our shoes and kitty, being the
fastidious groomer that she is, licks
her paws clean and voila! Roundworms.
One mosquito gets in the house and
voila! Heartworms. Kitty will never tell
you in any way, shape, or form that she
has these. In cats, the only clinical
sign of heartworms is often just sudden
death.
So NO EXCUSES! When you adopted
Fluffy you made a promise to be
responsible for her to the best of your
ability. She cannot prevent heartworms,
but you can. Do you know that 90% of the
heartworm positive cats I see in my
office are indoor-only?! And of course,
because we advocate for yearly testing,
I found these positive tests on routine
visits, not because they were showing
signs of illness. No one is immune to
summer’s rage. The good news is, every
parasite we know of can either be
prevented or treated early, before any
problems arise. The CDC recommends
deworming kitty at least 4 times per
year, but with some of these parasites
having as few as 17 day life cycles
(especially during the warmer months), I
can’t imagine how many are being allowed
to thrive inside kitty’s body before the
next deworming. The good news is that
there are several amazingly effective
products on the market that will prevent
and treat any and all of summer’s wrath.
I will not advocate for any one in
particular, although I do have my
preferences for safety reasons and
efficacy (If you want to know what I
recommend personally, you’ll have to
visit my web site or give me a call
770-888-8007
www.docmeow.com).
I hope I’ve convinced at least one
person to be a bit more proactive with
parasite control this summer. Heartworms
are 100% preventable, but once
contracted, can be 100% deadly. There is
no treatment in cats. Once Fluffy has
them, it becomes a waiting game; the
best we can do is get her on prevention
ASAP to prevent further infection
(because obviously she is prone to
infection or is in an environment that
has put her at risk of contracting even
more), we can also put her on an
anti-inflammatory that might lessen the
clinical signs associated with the dying
off of the heartworms. That, by the way,
is when sudden death happens. In cats,
heartworms live in a particular chamber
of the heart and vessels that when the
worm does die, it detaches it’s
mouthparts from the vessel wall and is
whisked off to become lodged in the
pulmonary arteries of the lung. As the
vessel becomes too narrow to allow the
heartworm to pass any further, the
vessel wall inflames, circulation is
completely blocked, and kitty has a hard
time breathing. Unfortunately this
scenario is incompatible with life, and
kitty dies. The anti-inflammatory may
help with preventing and decreasing some
of the inflammation when the worm
becomes lodged, but that is the only
thing it will do. Alternatively, with or
without treatment, we may never know
when the worm has actually died and
detached; kitty may live through it just
fine with no trouble breathing, and not
a single cough or wheeze. So what we do
is continue to test every 6 months. It
takes that long for kitty’s antibodies
to become low enough to be undetectable.
And it is the antibodies we are testing
for. So once the antibodies are gone,
the test becomes negative. Now, this is
of course a simplified version;
“Heartworms for Dummies 101.” There are
a myriad of other factors and treatments
and testing that may be more suitable
for each different case, so I don’t want
to get letters from owners and other
veterinarians “suggesting” that I do
things differently, or thinking they are
educating me on something I may not have
known to do. These are the absolute
basics, and the only point I am trying
to make is, PROTECT YOUR PETS FROM
PARASITES THIS SUMMER! It is much more
cost-effective and much less miserable
than when it is too late and Fluffy is
bald from flea allergies, is anemic from
a blood parasite from said fleas, is a
ticking time bomb with heartworms, is
chronically malnourished from internal
roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, and so
on and so on.
If you have any further questions,
please don’t hesitate to call my clinic.
I am very proud of my entire staff for
being so knowledgeable about feline care
(both emotional and physical!), so you
can ask anyone just about anything. And
as far as products to prevent those
nasty parasites, some are
prescription-only, and the only way to
know you have just spent your
hard-earned money for something safe,
effective, not close to expiration, and
manufactured for sale in the U.S. is to
purchase it through a licensed
veterinary clinic. So see your
veterinarian for what will be right for
your own kitty. There are several
options, and each cat may benefit more
from one product than another. It all
depends on kitty’s lifestyle, history,
and individual physical make-up. They
are not little clones of each other
after all. Each one is uniquely special
to you and to the world. Now, go give
Kitty a hug, and while you are down
there, you may just want to give her a
quick once-over for fleas! |
|
back
to top |
|
|
Common
Household Items May Harm Pets' Health
| |
To reduce the number of accidental pet
deaths, veterinarians urge owners to
safeguard their homes. Certain people
foods, rat poison, specific plants,
household cleaners and some human
medicines may harm a pet’s health,
cautions the Georgia Veterinary Medical
Association (GVMA).
“There are so many household dangers
that a pet can come into contact with,”
says Dr. Kevin Chapman, GVMA board
member. “It’s impossible to avoid every
harmful item, but owners need to limit
their pet’s interaction with potentially
damaging food, plants, medicines and
poisons.”
It’s well known that chocolate poses
serious health risks for pets, but other
foods can also cause problems when
ingested. Avoid feeding dogs anything
with caffeine, seeds or pits, alcohol,
any product containing Xylitol, onions,
nuts (with the exception of peanuts),
grapes or raisins. Such food items can
be harmful to a pet’s heart, kidneys and
digestive track. Avocados and overheated
Teflon pans are poisonous for birds.
Poisons and traps set to entice rats or
mice are threatening to pets when
accidentally ingested or sniffed.
Symptoms of ingestion include loss of
appetite, impaired movement, paralysis
of the hind limbs, muscle tremors,
seizures and a depression of the central
nervous system.
Many plants can cause problems for house
pets. Lily of the valley, oleander,
azalea, yew,
foxglove, rhododendron and kalanchoe may
cause heart problems if ingested;
Rhubarb and shamrock leaves may produce
kidney failure. Sago Palms, mushrooms
and any wild fungi may cause liver
damage. To limit exposure, plants should
be kept out of the house or away from
pets.
Pets can face severe health risks if
exposed to medications such as
Acetaminophen (Tylenol), NSAIDs
(Aspirin, Ibuprofen, Phenylbutazone,
Naproxen - X), prescription drugs or
vitamins. Symptoms of drug ingestion
include salivation, weakness, abdominal
pain and vomiting. Over-ingestion of
such drugs may cause the same harmful
reactions in humans. Human drugs should
be kept sealed and stored in a cabinet
out of a pets’ reach. Pets are also
vulnerable to toothpaste, sun block and
hand soap, which can cause stomach
upset, vomiting and diarrhea.
GVMA is a professional association of
more than 1,260 veterinarians committed
to advancing the veterinary medical
profession and supporting the
veterinarian's role in improving animal
and public health. |
| |
|
back
to top |
|
|
Dogs:
Heartworm Disease and Prevention
| |
Heartworm disease is an entirely
preventable condition that can
be fatal to your pet. The dog
may have no symptoms until the
disease becomes severe and a
blood test indicates
infestation. Hundreds of dogs
die needlessly every year from
this disease. Heartworm is most
prevalent in the South and in
subtropical climates but exists
everywhere there are mosquitoes.
You can reduce your dog’s chance
of contracting Heartworm disease
with preventive medicines,
avoiding exposure to mosquitoes,
and routine Heartworm testing.
Heartworms are parasitic
nematodes, one of a species of
roundworms. The mosquito is
vital to the intermediate stage
of the life cycle of the heart
worm. Adult worms bear live
young which circulate in the
host animal’s blood system. When
a mosquito bites the host, the
young worms (microfilariae) are
ingested. Within the insect the
microfilariae go through a
series of molts to the larvae
stage then migrate to the
mosquito’s mouth and are passed
on to their next host through a
mosquito bite. This stage takes
two to six weeks depending on
the warmth of the climate.In
the new host the larvae remain
at the site of the bite for a
week or two, then move to the
abdomen and chest regions where
they grow into immature adults.
In three or four months they
begin to enter the bloodstream
and lodge in the heart, lungs
and pulmonary arteries. They
will grow too up to fourteen
inches long and will live five
to seven years in the dog’s
body. In about seven months the
male and female Heartworms begin
to mate and produce
microfilariae. A dog may have
only a few Heartworms or may
become severely infested. |
 |
|
|
|
There are no early signs of infestation.
Dogs that have heavy infestations may
show symptoms such as coughing and
exhaustion when exercising, lethargy,
and loss of appetite. In more advanced
cases the dog may cough up blood, faint,
or experience severe weight loss. Fluid
may accumulate in the abdomen causing it
to distend. The worms will cause
obstructions and blockages requiring the
heart to work harder to pump blood
through the dog’s circulatory system. If
untreated, the infestation will result
in liver damage, congestive heart
failure and death. Some cases may be so
severe that they are beyond treatment.
When diagnosed early, Heartworm disease
may be treated effectively. Blood tests
can identify the antibodies the dog body
produces in response to the worms. The
treatment can be taxing on the dog’s
heart, lung, and kidney function and the
dog’s health must be evaluated by a
veterinarian before treatment begins.
Adult worms are usually killed with an
arsenic-based compound. Immiticide is
the currently recommended brand of
Heartworm medication. It is more
effective and has fewer side effects
than earlier formulas and is safer for
dogs in the late stages of the disease.
After treatment the dead worms will be
absorbed by the dog’s body. His exercise
must be restricted for a month or two so
dead worms don’t break free and travel
to the lungs possibly causing
respiratory failure and death. Several
weeks later the dog will undergo
treatment to kill the microfilariae in
his blood stream. Blood tests will be
taken to determine successful treatment.
Once treatment has been deemed
successful, the dog should be given
preventive medications.
Microfilariae can live for up to two
years in the dog’s system. If they are
not picked up by a mosquito they will
eventually die. Pregnant female dogs may
transmit the microfilariae to their
unborn puppies. The puppies won’t
develop adult Heartworms from these
worms since the mosquito plays a role in
the Heartworm life cycle but they will
be carriers of the parasites.
Preventive medications will also remove
most adult Heartworms from dogs but it
takes 18 months for the adult worms to
die. This method is reserved for dogs
whose health may not tolerate the
harsher treatment or whose owners may
not be able to afford the more expensive
Immiticide.
In advanced cases with substantial heart
involvement, the Heartworms may be
removed surgically.
There are a number of veterinary drugs
for the prevention of Heartworm disease.
Dogs should be given preventative
medication year round. Any dogs more
than seven months old should be
evaluated for Heartworm disease by a
veterinarian before preventive treatment
begins.
Cats may also become infested with
Heartworms but often rid themselves
spontaneously of the infestation. Cats
who do develop Heartworm disease may
also be treated with drugs. Humans
rarely become infested. The
microfilariae die shortly after entering
a human lung. Granulomas will form
around the dead worms which may show up
on a X-ray resembling lung cancer, and a
biopsy will rule out the
life-threatening condition. |
| |
|
back
to top |
|
|
|
|
|
My Petz
Magazine - 1735 Buford Highway, Suite 215 - Cumming,
GA 30041
Phone:
678-341-6868 Fax:
678-341-6867Inquiry@MyPetzMagazine.com |
|
Copyright © 2012 |
|
|
